Fours and a Pour - A Team Challenge

One of the main reasons why Fours and a Pour started was to force me to stop and note what's going on in this moment.   It's easy to keep projecting forward but it's challenging to be present.  However, by constantly being observant of this instance, or of this small thing, I gain a greater appreciation for all that swirls around me. 

I open with this as a way to publicly shame myself because I have not been following this ideology AT ALL.  I have a scarlett "S" for "slacker" emblazoned on my arm  I have been barreling through my days; my eyes don't see what's around and my mind is charging towards the next task at hand.  And it's autumn.  In New York.  One of the most beautiful times of year.  For chrissakes….

So, let's create a challenge together.  I'll get back to doing this column weekly and in turn, please post just one of your own "fours" in the comments section. A little inspiration for us all. 

The Fours

1. The F train musicians

Want to hear some quality live music?  Take a ride on the F train, especially to the Delancey Street and 14th Street stops.  Holy hell, there is some serious talent going on down here. I have actually let a train go by just so I can listen a little longer.  At 14th St, look for the girl with the Afro and her guitar.  Sheer, raw talent.  And Delancey Street always has a rotating showcase of soul musicians.  Forget Ticketmaster, I'm swiping my Metrocard when I want to attend a concert.

2.  The Love Affairs of Nathaniel P. by Adelle Waldman

Although the protagonist is male, I can't imagine that this novel about a writer loving and living in modern-day Brooklyn isn't semi-autobiographical.  However, the rise of demise of a relationship chronicled throughout this novel is thoroughly relatable to anyone who's been, or wants to be, in love.

3. The Wancko Cookie from Sigmund's Pretzel

I'm been carbo-loading on Sigmund's Pretzels for a while, but how did I nearly overlook this cookie?! Peanut Butter. Chocolate Chunks. Pretzel pieces.  And did I mention it's the size of my head?

photo source: seriouseats.com

4. Brooklyn Based's Indie Media Camp Event

This daylong conference was a source of great information as well as inspiration.  It's encouraging to hear how even successful sites, such as Design*Sponge still consider themselves a work in progress, even ten years later.  And the sale of Curbed, a network that started as a small passion project, to Vox Media for $25 - $30 million?  Dream big, people, dream big. For a full recap, click here. 

The Pour

Bricco Rivoira Masna Barbera d'Asti 2007 
 Simpler, more fruit forward than other Barberas, this medium-bodied red showcases bushels of  blackberries and cherries.  Classic notes of plum and soil do come through but this juicy version of a Barbera fits the bill for the chilly-but-not-quite cold autumn evenings.

Health Check: My Collection

After a harrowing tasting of one of my bottles the other week, I've been very concerned about the state of the others.  Did I royally fuck them up via poor storage? Nervously, I brought two bottles over to my friend's apartment as refreshments for a photo shoot.  One white, one red.  How'd they fare?

Hermann J Wiemer, Magdalena Vineyard, Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes, 2011 - Yee-haw, this Riesling was just as amazing as when I first tried it over the summer.   It was all about the peach and apricot upon first sniff, but then limes and grapefruits came through, quickly followed by slate.  On the palate, it was like bushelfuls of orchard fruits had been dumped into the glass, but again, citrus to the rescue to keep it zesty.  Although it was classified as a dry Riesling, I did sense more residual sugar than anticipated. The high acid and viscous body gave it depth and interest and I'm sad that my sole bottle of this wine is gone. 

Domaine Anne & Jean-Francois Delorme, Mercurey, Burgundy, 2009 - This pinot noir started tight; I faintly detected blackberry, raspberry, a bit of plum and while the scents of soil and earth were apparent, the alcohol was rather prominent on the nose.  The first few sips didn't do much to boost my confidence; the alcohol was giving off some major heat and the whole thing tasted a bit flat.  Fuuuuuuccccckkkk. Luckily, it just needed a bit of time and air. As it evolved it became more lush and round on the palate.  The tannins and acid found they groove, giving the flowering fruits a richness to their flavor. I breathed a massive sigh of relief. 

I think they're going to pull through, but fingers crossed….

Sound the Alarm

Houston, we may have a problem.

Tonight, I opened up one of my more "casual" bottles of wine and it was not good.  Not good at all.
Now, there are a few reasons why this could be:
1.  The wine itself was just not that great.
2.  This particular wine is meant to be drunk young and doesn't age well.
3.  My palate is still off due to being sick.

Or, my worst fear:
4.  The wine, which has been improperly stored for the past few months, has gone off.

Don't judge.  I'm ashamed enough as is. I can try to blame various circumstances that have occurred over the past few months but let's be honest:  like some teenager about to be sent to juvie, I knew the rules and didn't follow them.

The cause of the bad wine is inconclusive but it does raise a major concern for the other bottles, the "better" ones that I'm waiting for the right time to open: have I destroyed my collection??? Have I done irrevocable damage to my vino?

I think we all can learn some valuable lessons from this experience:
1.  Drink your s***.  They are there to be consumed, especially if they are not wines that would benefit from aging.
2.  Store your s*** properly.  No excuses.

Has anyone else had a bad wine storage experience? Don't worry, this is a safe space, feel free to share...

        The whistle-blowing bottle

Sunday Night Humor

Here's a little something to get you ready to face Monday, courtesy of my Mom (and everyone wish her a happy birthday!)

Fours and a Pour: Something Old and a Whole Lotta New

Change is abound and many are still feeling the energy of fall and that deeply ingrained back-to-school excitement.  Although this is sounding like an astrological horoscope, it is a time of renewal for many aspects of life,  one of which is changing my living space.  The concept of decorating and furnishing has sparked much creativity in me, so this week's Fours is primarily dedicated to interior design.   (I'm learning my style leans towards bordello chic - I foresee a lot of leopard print). 

The Fours

1.  Yogibo Fly - Holy crap, it's an indoor hammock.  From a practicality standpoint, what better way to provide seating in a small space?  But come on,  it's an indoor hammock!  I want this. So badly. My hammock obsession is thisclose to being realized.

2. Urbio wall garden - I've never been able to keep a plant alive longer than a week, but this Urbio wall garden is inspiring me to give some TLC to low maintenance succulents (and truthfully, saying "succulents" makes me giggle).

3.  Apartment Therapy's Big Book of Small, Cool Spaces by Malcolm Gillingham-Ryan - Ingenious ideas for tiny space dwellers can be found in this coffee-table book.  Read it and try not to be inspired. 

4.  Vynebar hanging storage - this rack will serve as both wine storage and an art installation on my wall.  It will probably encourage me to drink more as well so I can rotate the bottle selection and create new "art." 

Bricco Boschis, Cavallotto, Barolo, 2004

And the one old - this gorgeous Barolo that I've been saving for a special occasion and finally had a chance to open.  It started off with deep cherry and plum but beautiful violets wove their way through the nose.  It sat and breathed for a while, which then produced the plum, earth and tobacco and a bit of rose.  On the palate, the deep berries burst on the tongue along with some strong acid and tannins. They kept integrating into one of the most beautifully balanced wines I've had in a long, long time.   

Friday Fours and a Pour - September 13

Oooh, Friday the 13th.  How'd that work out for everyone?

The Fours
1. Blue Hill at Stone Barns is one of those special restaurants at the top of my "to-try" list, but until the right occasion comes along, Stone Barns Agricultural Center isn't a bad way to spend a few hours.  You can wander the grounds and their gardens, coo at the cute farm animals and grab a bite in their cafe. There's also a well-stocked gift shop that, for a few minutes, inspired me to try to learn to cook.

2. These Proenza Schouler Shoes.  This oil-slick patent is so cool and unique I truly believe they will go with everything in my wardrobe and I can almost justify their price tag.  But then I remember I need to pay rent.

3. The neighborhood of Red Hook was hit fairly hard after Hurricane Sandy but after a recent excurison out there, it's thrilling to see it revitalized and thriving.  From the cool foodie-lab-concept space RES, to the bakery nirvana Baked, to the newly opened Hometown BBQ as well as the year-old Brooklyn Crab, not to mention the adorable boutiques along Van Brunt, this community is definitely worth a visit.  And I'm not talking about IKEA.

4.  Speaking of Red Hook, I'm enamored with the Michael Kukla Hex and Grid Exhibit at Kentler Gallery.  His works on paper, especially the intricate, web-like cutout pieces, were geometrically stunning.  www.mkukla.com

The Pour
A short while ago, my friend sent me a picture of Anthos, Matteo Correggia, 2011 a dry Brachetto, something I had never seen before.  To satiate my curiosity, she brought me a bottle, which we immediately cracked open. Blueberry, raspberry and strawberry appeared immediately, but was quickly followed by freesia and violet notes.  The flower notes continued to evolve and the wine blossomed into a floral bouquet, but still dry on the finish. It was medium-minus body with a decent amount of acidity.  Definitely one of the more unique wines I've drank recently.

Brooklyn Oenology

In recent years, Brooklyn's become synonymous with culinary trailblazing. Pickles? Chocolates? Ice cream? Salsa? Mayonnaise?  The borough's producing high-end versions of all these pantry staples, while challenging palates on the spectrum from familiar comfort foods to completely foreign cuisines. Given the burgeoning DIY attitude and homegrown pride of the borough, it makes plenty of sense that eventually someone would attempt wine.

I first became aware of Brooklyn Oenology a few years ago at a large wine tasting event.  I was intrigued by the concept of wine being made in Brooklyn as it felt like the one agricultural frontier still untapped in the borough, and after tasting through, I was rather impressed by the results. I soon learned it was spearheaded by a woman, Ali Shaper, which piqued my interest even further.  It stayed on my radar and eventually I had the opportunity to meet her and learn about BOE in depth.

Like many people I've met in the wine industry, her route was rather circuitous. She graduated from college with an engineering degree; however, after working for a while in the industry, she realized the passion wasn't there and quit her job.  From there, she started working in a tasting room in a vineyard in the Hudson Valley, which led to various positions in the wine and hospitality industry, from which her entreprenuerial spirit formulated the seedlings for BOE.  

She produces wine in a commercial winery out on Long Island, which she likens to renting time and space in a commercial kitchen, a common practice for chefs and bakers.  Currently BOE does not grow their own grapes but instead purchases them from other vineyards around the state, much like a negociant.  She says this allows her to purchase the grapes she wants and produce the exact style of wines she loves.  

In 2010, she opened the BOE tasting room in Williamsburg, which is not only a showcase for wine but a communal meeting place and event space. What's unique about BOE is the concept of terroir goes beyond the soil here and instead is thought of as New York culture. She proudly serves wine and beer from other winemakers, strengthening community ties. Bottle labels for BOE are designed by local artists and the shelves proudly display foodstuff from local food artisans. New York culture is the essential sense of place, not the plot of land where the vines grow.

Down the road, she has plans to purchase a vineyard plot and start growing her own grapes, an evolution for BOE.  For now, though, the wines shine and tease of the palate with the potential of what's to come.

Photo courtesy of brooklynoenology.com

BOE Shindig White, 95% Vidal Blanc, 5% Riesling, Finger Lakes, 2011

Vidal Blanc, also known as Ugni Blanc or Trebbiano, was a prominent player during the Finger Lakes trip, which had a range of hits and misses so we approached this wine like a frenemy.  On the nose, a light ginger essence gave way to pineapple an minerality. On the palate, this snappy white was reminiscent of a Vinho Verde; green apple, lime and a hint of sea salt tingled with medium acid but finished rather quickly.  This is one easy drinker.

BOE Chardonnay, North Fork, 2010

This chard was aged in old French oak, so it was mercifully free of uber-oaky tones. Instead, our noses were caressed with sweet cream, butter and a little bit of pear. The palate showcased some of these tones as well but an almond nuttiness tempered the dairy.  Medium acid and medium body gave this wine some structure and was one of the rare chardonnays that I wasn't mad at. 

Tousey Winery, Rebellion Rose, Blaufrankisch, Hudson Valley, 2012

Good ole Blaufrankisch, or Lemberger, as many of the Finger Lakes wineries called it.  This was a little more lush than some of the leaner ones tasted on the Finger Lakes trip.  I'm interested to know if it's the Hudson Valley soil, or the vinification, that made the difference. The nose was tart and juicy with aromas of cranberry and dark cherry.  Drinking it, Thanksgiving came to mind with the sweet n' tart profiles and acidic berries. The underripe green notes that often come through in a Lemberger weren't there, but the lighter style body and medium acid were still present.

Thirsty Owl Pinot Noir, Finger Lakes, 2010

Thirsty Owl was a winery that came to our attention while on our trip but as we didn't make it over, this was a great opportunity to try one of the wines. Like many of the pinots we saw in the Finger Lakes, it was translucent in color.  However, the lack of pigment belied the flavor in the glass. On the nose, a little bit of plum, earth and a horse-y funk rode around with some green pepper. On the palate, the plum came through along with some branches and a hint of mocha.  It was very light bodied and could be a good summer red.

Roanoke Vineyards, Marco Tulio, Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc, North Fork, 2010

On the nose, prune, plum and ketchup made an appearance on the boldest red we tasted. However, cherry shyly appeared in the beginning of the tasting, only to be strong-armed out of the way by the riper fruits. Medium acid and medium plus body, this wine was definitely California dreamin' when it was made. 

We finished the tasting with Atsby Armadillo Cake Sweet Vermouth, Long Island, NV.  Spirits are definitely not my area of expertise, but this vermouth, which can be drank straight or mixed for cocktails, imparts the flavors of whatever it was infused with; in this case, it was botanicals and citrus, which gave it a semi-sweet herbaceousness, versus a honeyed sweetness.   

Keep tasting, friends....

Friday Fours and a Pour - August 30

Who needs to go on vacation at the end of August when your city starts to feel like its own foreign country?  Most New Yorkers have fled sidewalks in search of sand; conversely, all of Europe has come to the city for vacation.  The hodpodge of languages I encounter on every street corner forces me to look at my city through their eyes (and with those big-ass cameras they have slung around their necks, you know they're probably getting some great shots). Some people may complain about the tourists, but it's fun to reframe the city from their viewpoint. Here's my hometown tourist favorites of the week:

The Fours:

The Highline
I'll admit, when the park was first built, I didn't fully get it and thought it was an overhyped PR blitz for the city. But over time I've fallen deeply in love with this 1.45 mile stretch.  It's become my solace during hard times; nothing's more soothing than sitting on a bench, surrounded by aromatic plants, staring at the water and just thinking things through.  In addition, there's the spot I've dubbed The Road to Nowhere:  benches face a glass wall overlooking 10th Avenue and traffic rushes underneath you as you sit perfectly still.   It's also a gorgeous walk on a warm summer night, lights glimmering at you from both the walkways and the city skyline.  And Terroir has a location on the highline.  Yep. The Highline has wine.  'Nuff said.

Mast Brothers Factory
I grew up close to a chocolate factory in the suburbs of Massachusetts and on certain mornings, the wind carried the aromas to our front door, greeting us as we made our way to school. Walking into this Williamsburg factory/showroom, I was hit with nostalgia, along with the amazing, knee-melting scent of intense cocoa. These two bearded dudes were at the forefront of the Brooklyn culinary revolution with their gourmet chocolates and a trip to their Williamsburg factory is exhilarating, not only because of the chocolate perfume that envelops you when you walk in, but with the tantalizing baked goods behind the counter, gorgeously wrapped chocolate bars, handcrafted bags...
Ah, fuck it, I'll be blunt.  They have samples. TONS of free samples of their swoon-worthy chocolate. Amazing.

TheNewPotato.com
What do you get when you combined food, restaurants, fashion and design, shopping and cool, influential people? This amazing website. Between the inspirational stories and gorgeous photography, I can't stop perusing this website, even though my lunch hour is usually well past over by the time I can pull myself away.

Diptic

I'm a bit Urban Amish so I come to technology a little late in the game.  If you know about this one, good for you! If not, I have to say, this app just upped my Instagram game tenfold.  I can put all my food and wine shots into one composite, like this:

Or this:

Yes, I look like a total pig, but it's such a cool way to show an entire meal, from appetizers to dessert. I guess you can showcase other things, too, like, I dunno, your kids.


The Pour
In honor of Labor Day, I'm forgoing wine in favor of the most summer-y drink I've had in a long time.

The Ginger Colada at Berry Park in Williamsburg.  Made with slush from Kelvin Natural Slush Co, this rummy cooler is a spicy-sweet glass of vacation.  Except you're on a rooftop in Williamsburg.  Surrounded by hipsters.


Happy Labor Day!

Mystery Solved!

Those awesome Pop-tart like crackers I consumed with a crythal meth addict's intensity during my Finger Lakes trip?  They've been found! Thank you, Fox Run Vineyards, for sending me the info! 

Now, all I need is some wine....

Road Trip: Finger Lakes Part 3

Excited by our great tastings yesterday, we were ready for our last day of wineries on the trolley tour.  We knew we would be at some of the more touristy spots so managed expectations accordingly, but were still hopeful there would be some quality quaffing.

Our first stop was at Wagner, the Disneyworld of Finger Lakes wineries.  You enter into the gift shop and are immediately taken on one of the rides  (the tour of the faciltity with a Production 101 schpiel) followed by the tasting options (both wine and beer are up for grabs).  You can then get lunch at their cafe (with the un-Disneylike surly staff).  Be sure to buy some of your favorites on the way out!

We went through the wine tasting and here's where we encountered Melody, the aforementioned grape engineered in a Cornell University lab, designed to be light on the nose, ghostlike on the palate, but enough of a simple presence on the tongue to encourage more drinking.  None of what we drank was really our style, so we headed over to the brewery, which was a pleasant surprise. In particular, we enjoyed the Amber Lager, IPA, Oatmeal Stout, and the Doppelbock.  The beers trumped the wines at Wagner. 

 What we quickly learned is that many of the touristy spots offer flights of dry wines or sweet wines.  We always opted for the dry after seeing the frightening Catawba and other native grapes on the sweet runs.

After WagnerWorld, we hit up Standing Stone. Their 2012 Riesling displayed pleasing notes of citrus and warm tropical fruits complimented with the terroir-driven minerality and a decent amount of acidity. At this winery, I was also introduced to their 2011 Semi-dry Vidal, a grape with tons of pineapple and warm weather fruits, a butterscotch tone but a very short finish.  Upon further research, I learned Vidal is a hybrid of Ugni Blanc (also known as the Italian grape Trebbiano) and Rayon d'Or, created in the 1930s by Jean-Louis Vidal, designed to stand up to cold and harsh winters.  They also had several red varietals, the most interesting of which was 2010 Dark Red.  Made from the Saperavi grape, native to Georgia (as in Eastern Europe, not the South, y'all), the wine was intense ruby in color with flavors of macerated blackberries, black tea and soil. 

Lakewood Winery followed but nothing really drew us in.  Their 2010 Cabernet Franc was agreeably smoky but the Rieslings were oddly lower in acidity that what we normally expect in a Riesling. The absence of zing left them feeling unstructured.  

Then,  beacon of light arose on the trail:  Fox Run Vineyards.  This was one of the wineries on our "must-try" list and we were looking forward to what they had to offer. Their Tierce Riesling 2010, which is actually a collaboration among Fox Run, Anthony Road and Red Newt,  was served at the Presidential Inauguration this year, so expectations were high.

Again, we optioned for the dry flight which contained  Chardonnays reminiscent of ones found in the Languedoc-Roussillion, Pinot Noirs more aromatic most of the others we've tasted, as well as a Lemberger/Cab Franc blend, two grape varietals were were coming intimately familiar with. However, it were the Rieslings that jarred our palates awake.  The 2012 Dry Riesling had the now-familiar citrus fruit and stony aroma profiles with intense orchard fruits joining on the tongue. I had to keep going with their Rieslings, so the 2010 Riesling 12 was next on my lineup.  A few tropical fruits appeared on this sweeter-style Riesling but a very light smokiness wafted on the finish, giving it some intrigue.  My flight ended with their 2011 Reserve Riesling, the pinnacle of this tasting. It was off-dry so sugar tingled on the tip of the tongue and it married the zest of citrus fruits again with the more tropical tones. The flavor profile was somewhat simliar to the 12 but there was a gorgeous balance and complexity to this wine.  

How do you follow up with a tasting as spectacular as Fox Run?  You drink beer.  At our final stop, White Springs winery, we fled from the wine tasting table when we got a whiff of their sickly-sweet wine cooler and moved over to the Glass Factory Brew House table. Again, we found a rather elegant Doppelbock as well as a quaffable IPA. 
While the second day was a bit uneven in terms of what we tasted, we still came away with a deep appreciation for the region and the wine culture that has developed.  I'm eager to go back and delve even deeper into this burgeoning area.

P.S.  If anyone can tell me what these palate-cleansers are, I'll buy you a bottle of Riesling.  They taste exactly like Pop-Tart crusts.  Mmmmm, Pop-Tarts.

In the meantime...

While part 3 of the Finger Lakes trip is in progress, have a gander at this graphic, courtesy of my ever-supportive mother.

Happy Monday!

Road Trip: Finger Lakes Part 2

Our patriotic drinks at Belhurst

We arrived Thursday evening and immediately headed into Geneva town center in search of food.  Beef n' Brew, our destination and what seemed to be our sole option for dinner on July 4th eve, was unable to seat us as they had run out of food.  Oh, the woes of Small Town, USA.  Luckily, we were directed to Belhurst Castle where we found a beautiful patio, sustenance and Belhurst's private label wines.  A glass of Riesling, a glass of Cab Franc, some dinner and dessert and we were two very content travelers.

Art Series Riesling

Friday morning, our driver picked us up and we were on our way to Anthony Road Winery.  We structured our trip so the first day we would conduct a private tour of our own itinerary and Saturday would be an organized group tour. Anthony Road, own and run by John and Ann Martini, was one of the vineyards recommended by my manager at Union Square Wines.  At the vineyard, as at most, we were able to customize a tasting flight. After tasting through a variety of wines, I was most impressed with their 2012 Dry Riesling ($16) with lime, peach, soft minerals and a moderate amount of acidity, although not as viscous as Old World Rieslings; the 2011 Cabernet Franc/Lemberger ($20) with dark berry fruits, cinnamon, clove and green stems; the 2011 Bellaria ($20), a dessert wine created for their 20th anniversary, that tasted of honey and and candied citrus; and the 2010 Art Series Riesling ($28).  With a label featuring one of Ann's paintings, the wine's citrus notes melded nicely with the slate-y minerality, but was tempered by a touch of Granny Smith apples dipped in honey. The one that was a revelation for me, though, was their 2012 Gewurztraminer ($16), which became the benchmark for all Gewurztraminers for the rest of the trip. Lychees, pineapple, golden delicious apple and a bit of residual sweetness were given an edge with the spicy notes characteristic of a Gewurz.

Doesn't look too haunted...

Intrigued by our driver's story of a haunted winery, we deviated from our plan and made a detour to Miles Wine Cellars.  We didn't encounter any ghosts but did come across something much scarier: Cataba.  The sickly-sweet cousin to Manischevitz made its first (and unfortunately, not last) appearance in our glass.  Two sips in and we did a dump-and-run.

On the gator - we totally look like we
work in the fields

We also made a spontaneous stop at Shaw Vineyard where we tasted through their wines, of which we enjoyed their Cabernet Sauvignon the most. More educational, though, was the ride through the vineyards on the gator.  We saw the different varieties of grapes being planted, both vitis vinifera and vitis labrusca, along with food crops which were planted to imbue the soil with nutrients.

Tanks at Wiemer

Dessert wines 

Hermann J. Wiemer, a high priority on our list, was the next destination and oh boy, they did not disappoint.  Guided by Oskar Bynke, the winery's co-owner, we tasted an extensive amount of stellar wines. A few of the highlights were the 2011 Frost Cuvee ($13.50), a Chardonnay/Riesling/Gewurz/Sauvignon Blanc/Gruner Veltliner blend that married orchard fruits with spice and felt like a Gewurz but without the floral essences; the 2012 Gewurztraminer ($25) with it's uber-floral, rose bouquet nose, tropical fruits, spice and minerals; the 2011 Magdalena Vineyard Dry Riesling ($36), which, with its complexity and balance, ended up in my suitcase*; and the Reserve Riesling (not available for purchase), whose apricot, peach and stone fruits were met by slate, minerals, but most unusual for the region, but very welcome, a viscosity and structure that made my palate very, very happy.  They also had some gorgeous late-harvest dessert Rieslings, rich in honey and overripe stone fruits.

One of the Riesling offerings

The wine wall in the bistro room

Red Newt, another recommended winery with a highly regarded bistro, was next on the tour.  Riesling.  Damn, these people do it right.  We started with the 2011 Dry Riesling ($16) with golden delicious apple, apricot, minerals and strong acidity that finished refreshingly crisp and dry; the 2011 Semi-Dry Riesling ($14) with a similar flavor profile and acid level as the Dry, but more residual sugar on the finish; and the 2011 Circle Riesling ($12) another moderately sweet Riesling that shone a stronger light on the orchard fruits.  Also of note was their 2011 Gewurztraminer ($15) with less floral aromas than other Gewurztraminers but an exotic spice profile of cumin and curry, as well as their 2010 Cabernet Franc ($20) with chocolate covered strawberries, cocoa powder, black pepper and cinnamon.  The stemminess that can often disrupt a Cab Franc for me was gloriously absent and this was one of the rare reds I enjoyed on the trip.  

One of the Sheldrake offerings

Our final stop of the day was at Sheldrake, a vineyard that came to my attention through the Summer of Riesling campaign. For some reason, though, I wasn't as impressed as when I tried one of their Rieslings back in the city.  They seemed to lack a complexity that I found in some of the well-crafted wines we tasted earlier in the day and the roses, which they are also lauded for, tasted like simple Provence table roses.  

Post-tour we attempted a walk around by the lake but an impending storm drove us back into Geneva town center, where we fortuitously discovered Microclimate wine bar.  Chic yet charming, we grabbed seats at the bar.  My palate was definitely a little fatigued but not enough to pass up a rose tasting.  With two of my new favorites in the flight - the Ameztoi Txakolina and the Raimbault Sancerre - I wanted to compare them to the Sheldrake rose, which didn't fare so well earlier in the day; the highly acclaimed Robert Sinskey from California; plus one more French rose thrown in for good measure.   

Who can say no to a flight like this?

Finishing our night with a bite to eat and a stroll back to our hotel, we were tired, satiated and ready for tasting day 2.

*A bottle of their unlisted Lemberger may have also made it's way back home with me....

  

Illicit Behavior by Sud de France

"Angel by day, devil by night!" screamed the tabloid headlines.   Apparently, Sud de France has fallen into its old ways with its reds.  Boring, insipid wines that lack intrigue, or even basic balance, have started to show up at the tastings.  There seems to be a blasé attitude towards creating anything worthwhile, even though the potential is there.  

The third tasting event for Sud de France yielded uneven results. While the region has been known to experiment with grapes and blends, showcasing its cowboy spirit, a couple of the bottles seemed to show disregard for fundamentals of quality winemaking:

Felines Jourdan Picpoul de Pinet 2011 (approx. $15)

Like the Picpoul at the last event, this one showcased the same floral notes and apricot on the nose.  On the palate, ripe peach joined the apricot in the orchard, along with some lemon peel and slate-y minerality.  The salty essence that was so striking in the other Picpoul was very muted here, but it was still zingy and acidic.

Barons de Rothschild Lafite Val de L'ours, Chardonnay, 2011 (approx. $11)

Hooray! Another decent Chardonnay option.  Not quite as complex as Burgundy, this wine nonetheless gave Chard a little more street cred. Lemon and lime were immediately present on the nose and the palate, along with very ripe golden delicious apple.  There was a decent amount of stone and minerals on this wine to bring it back from the fruit side but had a round-ish mouthfeel, despite the fairly high acid.  

La Roche de la Chevaliere Cabernet Sauvignon, 2011 (approx. $12)

And then, SdF fell off the wagon.  Raspberry, blueberry and blackberry coupled with green bell pepper and wet soil on the nose, but the palate was thin and flat and the fruit was marred by a stemmy, underripe green note.  It was all out of whack and felt almost like an identity crisis - what cab sauv tastes like this?

C'est La View Pinot Noir Syrah 2011 (approx. $11)

In theory, I understood how this should have worked.  Pinot's plum and prune fruits could have given a plush, rounded feel to the peppery edge of the Syrah and as both wines are rooted with soil characteristics, it could have led to a rich, luscious wine.  However, what it gave was  a medium minus body that didn't deliver on the potential complexity.  It was thin, tight and high-pitched.  

Keep tasting, friends....

Sud de France - Road to Recovery

So far, Sud de France is working hard to redeem its reputation. Gone are the long nights of partying and illicit behavior. The paparazzi is now anxious to find better material than SdF picking up organic kale at the farmers market or drinking green smoothies after yoga.

The second tasting event yielded even more solid options for the impending summer heat. There are definitely quality wines to be had from the reforming region. So, what to drink?





Coteaux du Languedoc Picpoul de Pinet 2011 (approx $12)


This white, made from a grape called picpoul that is native to the south of France, is what I would call a "hammock wine" - one of those light and crisp easy drinkers that you can sip on all day long while lazily lounging around. On the nose, there are notes of honeysuckle and lime but on the palate, the floral tones are replaced by apricot and other subtle orchard fruits. Most interestingly, there is a saline, salty finish, with a few notes of slate, that round out this light-bodied, acidic and zesty wine. I'm starting to have a crush on Picpoul.





LaFage, Cote Est Catalan, 2011 (approx $15)


This white, a blend of grenache blanc, chardonnay and marsanne, had amplified honeysuckle and floral on the nose with a few whiffs of citrus. On the palate, peach, apricot, and other orchard fruit blossomed on the tongue. It was much more fruit forward than the Picoul but still finished dy. It was a medium minus body with good acidity, but, I have to admit, it got a little viscous when it got warm. Still a pleasing summer sipper, but darn, shoulda grabbed that ice bucket when I had a moment.





Les demoiselles L'Argentier, Languedoc, 2009 (approx $17)

So, here's where I see how the Languedoc-Roussilion wines starting getting a bad rap. It starts small - sneaking in after curfew, smoking cigarettes behind the bleachers - but you can see how it turns into a bigger problem. This red was super light bodied with essences of Iicorice, pepper and black cherry and both the nose and the palate. It's not that it's bad, per se, it's just not living up to its potential. Maybe it's just misunderstood, like the goth kid who writes beautiful poetry in his spare time. I would actually like to try this red chilled, or served with fish. Taking it out context of what we often think about reds could really improve this wine.





M. Chapoutier, Bila-Haut, Cote du Roussilion Villages 2012 (approx $17)

And then, redemption. Michel Chapoutier never fails to disappoint. Plum and ripe berries notes regale the nose then make their debut on the tongue, only to be followed with earth and spice. Its plush, velvety texture is not too acidic or tannic. A classic syrah, grenache and carignan blend - soooo smooooooth.





Abbaye des Monges Augustine, La Clape, uknown vintage (approx $14)

A classic southern France blend of syrah, cabernet sauvignon, grenache and mouvdre, this wine was similar in flavor profile and structure to the M. Chapoutier. However, an arrow of bing cherry shot through the entire wine, giving it distinction from the Chapoutier. The differences were rather nuanced but I slightly prefer the M. Chouptier.


Keep tasting, friends...

Can Sud de France Overcome Its Bad-Boy Rep?

PR and marketing can do wonders for a person or brand's ailing reputation.  Think about Angelina Jolie going from goth maven to humanitarian; J.Crew from boring preppy basics to arbiters of fashion; Lindsay Lohan from wild child teen star to......(well, ok, maybe not her).

The annual Sud de France promotion kicked off Memorial Day weekend, starting a month filled with pouring events around the city. It focuses on the Languedoc-Roussillon region and improving the reputation of their wines.  Historically, the area produced a lot of bulk wine of mediocre quality and although there has been improvements in recent years in vinification techniques, the infamy continues. 

These wines are worth taking a look at, though, especially in these summer months. The wines are produced to complement the warm and sunny climate and are ideal for the June - August stretch. While not all are rock stars, there are enough options to find something that can overcome the tabloid-cover reputation.

Chateau de Manissy Cuvee des Lys, Tavel, 2012 (Approx $18)

It's southern France, and you'd best be believin' they be making rose.  (I'm trying to sound tough in the face of all the rose blogs i post.  It's a lot of pink to have going on).  I totally dug this particular one.  Wild strawberry fields and ripe juicy berries were balanced by some nice minerality and acidity, which kept it from becoming a juice box.  It finished dry and it's medium-bodied style would stand up well on its own to food.  Yeah, this rose's not afraid of some dinner.  This pink's no wimp.

Domaine des Deux Puits, Cotes Catalanes, Muscat Sec, 2012 (Approx $13)

Muscat is often vinified in a sweeter style, so this dry Muscat was something fun to try.  The nose was rather floral, redolant of white flowers and honeysuckle along with essences of melon and a wee bit of citrus. On the palate, there was a lot of ripe orchard fruits, such as peach and apricot but high acidity.  It's a sitting-on-the-porch-in-the summer-sipping-some-wine kind of situation with this bottle.  Perhaps pair it with a hammock?

Chateaux Coupe Roses, La Bastide, Minvervois, 2010 (Approx $17)

Eh.  Just not in love with this one.  Made with carignan from old vines, It was really earthy and barnyard-y, lots of musky, dirty stuff going on.  There were some blackberry and black, brambly fruits on this and it could have fallen into the "fun n' funky" category of wines but it just didn't sing to me.  It was light-bodied and good for the summer but I don't ever see myself reaching for this one. The label is pretty fun, though.  On second glance the flower isn't as delicate as first impressions may give;  it looks like a tattoo on a biker chick, or maybe some big dude named Bubba. 

Keep tasting, friends...