Sud de France - Road to Recovery

So far, Sud de France is working hard to redeem its reputation. Gone are the long nights of partying and illicit behavior. The paparazzi is now anxious to find better material than SdF picking up organic kale at the farmers market or drinking green smoothies after yoga.

The second tasting event yielded even more solid options for the impending summer heat. There are definitely quality wines to be had from the reforming region. So, what to drink?





Coteaux du Languedoc Picpoul de Pinet 2011 (approx $12)


This white, made from a grape called picpoul that is native to the south of France, is what I would call a "hammock wine" - one of those light and crisp easy drinkers that you can sip on all day long while lazily lounging around. On the nose, there are notes of honeysuckle and lime but on the palate, the floral tones are replaced by apricot and other subtle orchard fruits. Most interestingly, there is a saline, salty finish, with a few notes of slate, that round out this light-bodied, acidic and zesty wine. I'm starting to have a crush on Picpoul.





LaFage, Cote Est Catalan, 2011 (approx $15)


This white, a blend of grenache blanc, chardonnay and marsanne, had amplified honeysuckle and floral on the nose with a few whiffs of citrus. On the palate, peach, apricot, and other orchard fruit blossomed on the tongue. It was much more fruit forward than the Picoul but still finished dy. It was a medium minus body with good acidity, but, I have to admit, it got a little viscous when it got warm. Still a pleasing summer sipper, but darn, shoulda grabbed that ice bucket when I had a moment.





Les demoiselles L'Argentier, Languedoc, 2009 (approx $17)

So, here's where I see how the Languedoc-Roussilion wines starting getting a bad rap. It starts small - sneaking in after curfew, smoking cigarettes behind the bleachers - but you can see how it turns into a bigger problem. This red was super light bodied with essences of Iicorice, pepper and black cherry and both the nose and the palate. It's not that it's bad, per se, it's just not living up to its potential. Maybe it's just misunderstood, like the goth kid who writes beautiful poetry in his spare time. I would actually like to try this red chilled, or served with fish. Taking it out context of what we often think about reds could really improve this wine.





M. Chapoutier, Bila-Haut, Cote du Roussilion Villages 2012 (approx $17)

And then, redemption. Michel Chapoutier never fails to disappoint. Plum and ripe berries notes regale the nose then make their debut on the tongue, only to be followed with earth and spice. Its plush, velvety texture is not too acidic or tannic. A classic syrah, grenache and carignan blend - soooo smooooooth.





Abbaye des Monges Augustine, La Clape, uknown vintage (approx $14)

A classic southern France blend of syrah, cabernet sauvignon, grenache and mouvdre, this wine was similar in flavor profile and structure to the M. Chapoutier. However, an arrow of bing cherry shot through the entire wine, giving it distinction from the Chapoutier. The differences were rather nuanced but I slightly prefer the M. Chouptier.


Keep tasting, friends...

Blizzard-Worthy Bottles

Ah, blizzards. Some people opt to ravage grocery stores like bears at a campsite then hibernate for days. I view it as a chance to go out and play, a wonderland devoid of traffic and crowded sidewalks.  In this alternate universe, a snowball fight in the middle of the street during rush hour is entirely possible.

In a blink-and-you'll-miss-it moment,  a blizzard hit NYC a couple of weeks ago.  Two days later everything melted, but for a nanosecond the city was something out a Disney movie:

(photo courtesy of Jennifer Hill)

My other favorite part of a blizzard?  The ease of getting into restaurants that normally require reservations weeks out.  Taking full advantage of this situation, we scaled snowdrifts for some fabulous food and, of course, wine.

Friday night we hit up Louro, a new neighborhood spot which absolutely lived up to all the buzz it's been generating. The dishes were inventive yet accesible and felt playful but yet made you stop and think about what the hell was going on in your mouth.

Reviewing the wine list, I paused at the Grenache from Spain. Grenache is more commonly referred to as Garnacha in that country - why the other terminology? Regardless, the juicy pluminess of the Garnacha sounded like a warm, enveloping hug, perfect for the night.

Once the bottle arrived at the table, I understood the French labeling. The wine was actually a Rhone blend: 70% Grenache, 10% Carignan, 10% Syrah, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. How would this compare to a French Cote du Rhone?

Clot D'Encis, Rhone Blend, Agricola Sant Josep, Spain
The Grenache was prominent as the fruit hit our noses immediately, Cherry, raspberry, and a bit of plum sprang up, with a little bit of spice trailing behind. The first couple of sips followed suit in flavor and the medium body, comparable to a classic Rhone, was also present. However, I noted more tannins in this wine over other CdR wines and the acidity felt a bit higher. Overall, though, it was very balanced and smooth and intensely enjoyable.

The next night, we went to Minetta Tavern, one of my all-time favorite NYC restaurants.  Reservations are difficult, to put it mildly, and walk-ins are unimaginable before 11pm, but as it's in our neighborhood, we've lucked out more often than not.  The blizzard aided in our dinner quest and before long we were indulging in their famous Black Label burgers and of course, wine.


Domaine le Sang des Cailloux, Vacqueyras 2010, France
A neighboring regions to Chateauneuf du Pape, this Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre blend showcased deep dark berry fruits, herbaceous spices, notes of artichoke, and plenty of rootsy earthiness.  On the palate, the same notes, along bit plums, drank very smoothly, enhanced by a medium plus body and pronounced tannins.  The burger and wine were having a lovefest in my mouth.

As a total aside, they serve one of the best desserts in the city - a classic chocolate souffle for two.  We have occasionally come into the restaurant just for this dessert.  We are also not embarrassed to admit we have ordered two of these on the same visit.  Yep, souffle for four people but only two people eating it.  Don't judge.

Keep tasting, friends....